Molinara

Molinara is characterized by an abundant presence of bloom on the berries, from which it gets the name “mulinara,” derived from the Veronese word meaning “from the mill” or “miller.” This unique grape is believed to have originated in Verona, making it an integral part of the region’s rich winemaking history.

Since 1800, this variety has been grown in the Valpolicella, Valpantena, and the Val d’Illasi regions of the Veneto. The grape’s distinctive waxy, light-colored surface appears covered with a white bloom even when fully ripe, giving it its characteristic appearance that earned its mill-related name.

What Makes the Molinara Grape Variety Unique

Molinara stands out among Italian grape varieties for several distinctive characteristics:

Molinara is typically grown on the hills of the Veneto region, where the hilly landscape shapes its unique terroir and influences the grape’s development.

Physical Characteristics: Characterized by its medium size and thick skin, Molinara grapes produce wines that are light in color, low in alcohol, and have a refreshing acidity. The grape has a waxy surface, light in color, which is quite visible even when it is fully ripe.

Winemaking Properties: It adds acidity to the wines of the Valpolicella and Bardolino regions, serving as a crucial blending component. Molinara is a high-yielding variety that produces light colored, saline wines when vinified alone.

Unique Challenges: The wine’s high propensity for oxidation, coupled with its low color extract, has caused a decline in favor and plantings among Venetian vineyards. This makes it both unique and challenging for modern winemakers seeking deeper, more intensely colored wines.

Where Molinara Grows In The Veneto Region and The World

Molinara accounted for 595 hectares (1,470 acres) of planting land in Italy as of 2010, almost exclusively in the Veneto region. The grape is located in the province of Verona, where its cultivation is remarkably concentrated in northern Italy, particularly around Verona and in several historic towns in the region.

Primary Growing Regions:

• Valpolicella DOCGDOCG stands for Denominazione di Origine… More
• Bardolino DOC
• Valpantena
• Val d’Illasi

Declining Plantings: Plantings have declined significantly, falling by more than half from an area of 1,301 hectares (3,210 acres) in 2000 to 595 hectares in 2010. This dramatic reduction reflects changing market preferences for fuller-bodied, more intensely colored red wines.

Outside of Italy, Molinara remains virtually unknown and not commercially cultivated, making it a truly indigenous Italian variety.

How Winemakers Use Molinara

Molinara rarely appears as a varietal wine and is much more commonly used to add its naturally high acidity to blends. It is blended in minor quantity (5-10%) with Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella.

Traditional Blending: It adds acidity to the wines of the Valpolicella and Bardolino regions, which are made with blends of Corvina, Corvinone, Molinara, and Rondinella.

Alternative Styles: Taking into consideration the organoleptic characteristics, such as its pronounced flavor, Molinara can be used for the production of rosé wines or sparkling wines. Molinara is also vinified in light-bodied rosé: juicy, floral, spicy, and salty.

Appassimento Method: In prestigious wines like Amarone della Valpolicella, Molinara contributes its acidity to balance the concentrated sweetness achieved through the traditional grape drying process.

Tasting Notes and Wine Specifications

Color:

When vinified on its own, Molinara grapes produce a bright cherry colour wine, though wines made from Molinara grapes often have a pale ruby color. It is rarely vinified as a single variety and is a wine with a soft red colour.

Aroma:

It is known for its aromas of rose petals, tart cherries, red berries, and herbs. The grape offers an array of delicate aromas, ranging from wild berries and redcurrants to floral notes such as violets. It has fresh and fruity aromas, with notes of wild berries standing out.

Flavor:

Its taste profile is characterized by notes of tart cherry and berry fruits, with herbal, earthy undertones. They exhibit notes of red fruits, such as cherry and raspberry. The wines typically show bright acidity with pronounced fruit flavors.

Structure:

Molinara is a red grape variety, producing light- to medium-bodied wines with light tannins and high acidity. On the palate, Molinara wines often exhibit soft tannins and a light-bodied structure. On the palate, it has a light body, little alcohol, and lots of sapidity.

Aging:

Due to the wine’s high propensity for oxidation, Molinara wines are typically consumed young and fresh. Extended aging is not recommended for varietal Molinara wines, though in blends for Amarone, the grape contributes to wines with significant aging potential.

Food pairing:

Valpolicella’s simple flavors go well with classic Italian dishes such as pizza and pasta, as well as poultry and some beef dishes. It is also one of the few reds that can complement seafood or salads due to the wine’s relatively light body and tannins.

Ideal Pairings:

• Fresh pasta with light tomato sauces
• Grilled vegetables
• Seafood dishes
• Light poultry preparations
• Pizza Margherita
• Fresh salads with vinaigrette

Local dishes featuring high-quality olive oil, fresh tomatoes, celery, mushrooms, and even bacon or meat are often served alongside Molinara wines, highlighting the importance of artisanal oil in regional cuisine.

Molinara Today

The Molinara grape risks disappearing because it cannot give dark and fleshy red wines, so trendy in today’s market. This presents both challenges and opportunities for the variety:

Market Challenges:

• Consumer preference for fuller-bodied wines
• High propensity for oxidation, coupled with its low color extract
• Declining vineyard plantings

Emerging Opportunities:

• Growing interest in indigenous varieties
• Climate change is making lighter wines more appealing
• Rosé and sparkling wine production potential
• Natural wine movement embracing unique characteristics

Molinara is traditionally grown in fields surrounding small farms, where farming was never easy due to the hilly terrain. Today, some of these fields also host wind turbines that generate electricity for the region.

Current Status: Modern winemakers are exploring Molinara’s potential in rosé production and as a component in natural wines, where its distinctive saline qualities and bright acidity are appreciated. Some producers are also experimenting with Molinara in sparkling wine production, capitalizing on its natural acidity.

Should You Try Molinara?

Yes, if you enjoy:

• Light, refreshing red wines
• High-acidity wines that pair well with food
• Exploring rare, indigenous grape varieties
• Italian rosé wines
• Wines with unique mineral and saline characteristics

Consider alternatives if you prefer:

• Full-bodied, tannic red wines
• Deep, intensely colored wines
• Wines with significant aging potential
• Rich, concentrated flavors

If you’re planning a trip to the Veneto region, consider staying at a local restaurant to fully immerse yourself in the area’s culinary culture. You can order Molinara from the menu, enjoy a drink of this unique wine with traditional dishes, and eat like a local—making your stay a memorable part of your journey.

Where to Find It: Pure Molinara wines are rare and typically found only in the Veneto region or through specialized importers focusing on indigenous Italian varieties. Your best bet is to experience Molinara in traditional Valpolicella and Bardolino blends, where it contributes its distinctive character to these classic Italian wines.

Conclusion

Molinara represents both the vulnerability and the unique character of Italy’s indigenous grape varieties. Making them an enjoyable and versatile choice for wine enthusiasts, these wines offer a glimpse into traditional Venetian winemaking while challenging modern expectations about what red wine should be.

Reflecting on the story of Molinara as a place in southern Italy, it is a community where generations of family were born and built their lives. The town was once filled with life, its houses open and welcoming, and locals celebrated their traditions with honour. Over the years, migration changed the population, as many left for better opportunities in places like Canada, Argentina, and Australia. After the fall of the Roman Empire and through times of hardship,

Molinara was nearly destroyed by natural disasters but was rebuilt by its resilient community. Today, visitors can discover the inside of Molinara’s historic center, explore its unique places, and experience the authentic spirit of its people. Its proximity to Naples adds to its cultural richness and accessibility, making it a remarkable place to visit and learn about the enduring story of its locals.

While Molinara faces significant challenges in today’s market, its distinctive characteristics—bright acidity, delicate fruit flavors, and unique saline qualities—make it a valuable component in traditional blends and an intriguing option for adventurous wine drinkers. As the wine world increasingly values diversity and indigenous varieties, Molinara may find new appreciation among those seeking authentic, terroir-driven expressions.

For wine enthusiasts interested in exploring Italy’s viticultural heritage, Molinara offers a unique tasting experience that connects directly to centuries of Venetian winemaking tradition. Whether encountered in a traditional Valpolicella blend or as a rare varietal expression, Molinara provides insight into the delicate balance between tradition and innovation that defines modern Italian wine.