Pecorino

Pecorino is an ancient white grape variety native to central Italy, with roots stretching back centuries, where it was born…

Pecorino

definition

Pecorino is an ancient white grape variety native to central Italy, with roots stretching back centuries, where it was born in the rugged Apennine Mountains. The Pecorino grape gets its distinctive name from the Italian word “pecora,” meaning sheep. According to local legends, sheep would graze on the vines during autumn, drawn to the sweet, ripe grapes—hence “pecorino” or “little sheep.” The sheep’s milk would then be made into pecorino romano cheese.

Pecorino nearly disappeared in the mid-20th century as winemakers favored more productive and easier-to-cultivate grapes. However, dedicated viticulturists in the Marche and Abruzzo regions began rescuing Pecorino in the 1980s and 1990s, recognizing its extraordinary potential for producing high-quality white wines with character and aging ability.

Where Pecorino Grows in Italy and the World

Italy – The Heartland

Pecorino remains predominantly an Italian phenomenon, with two main production zones:

  • Marche: The coastal region produces elegant, mineral-driven Pecorino, particularly in the Offida DOCG appellation, where it achieves its most refined expression.
  • Abruzzo: Here, in the Terre di Chieti and Controguerra DOC zones, Pecorino develops slightly more body and tropical fruit intensity, benefiting from the region’s warmer microclimate.
  • Other Italian regions: Small plantings of Pecorino exist in the Lazio region, the Umbria region, and even experimental plots on the island of Sicily.

International Plantings

Pecorino’s international presence remains limited but is growing:

  • Australia: A handful of adventurous, bold winemakers in regions like the Adelaide Hills have experimented with Pecorino
  • United States: Minimal plantings exist in California and potentially other states
  • Other countries: Scattered experimental vineyards may exist, but production is negligible

The grape’s global footprint remains tiny compared to international varieties, giving it a true Italian authenticity, making it a treasure to savor.

How Winemakers Use Pecorino in Pasta Dishes

Winemakers approach Pecorino with various techniques to highlight different aspects of its personality:

Traditional Approach: Many producers vinify Pecorino in stainless steel tanks to preserve its fresh, vibrant fruit character and natural acidity. Fermentation temperatures are kept cool (15-18°C) to maintain aromatic intensity.

Oak Aging: Some ambitious winemakers age Pecorino in French oak barrels or barriques, adding complexity, texture, and vanilla notes while softening the wine’s natural structure. This approach typically involves 6-12 months of barrel aging.

Sur Lie Aging: Aging on the lees (dead yeast cells) adds creaminess and textural richness while developing more complex, brioche-like aromas.

Blending: While often produced as a single-variety wine, Pecorino occasionally appears in blends with Trebbiano, Passerina, or other local white varieties.

Late Harvest: Rare late-harvest versions showcase Pecorino’s ability to develop intense sweetness while maintaining balancing acidity.

Tasting Notes, Distinctive Flavor, and Wine Specifications

Color: Straw yellow to golden yellow, with greenish reflections in younger wines. Well-aged examples develop deeper golden hues with amber highlights.

Aroma:

  • Primary aromas: White flowers (acacia, hawthorn), citrus (lemon zest, grapefruit), green apple
  • Secondary notes: Ripe tropical fruits (pineapple, mango, passion fruit), stone fruits (white peach, apricot)
  • Tertiary aromas (with age): Honey, almond, dried herbs, mineral/flinty notes, and sometimes a distinctive anise or fennel character

Flavor: The palate of Pecorino mirrors the aromatic complexity with layers of citrus, orchard fruits, and tropical notes. Distinctive mineral salinity often appears mid-palate, with a characteristic hint of almond or bitter herbs on the finish. The wine balances richness with refreshing acidity, never feeling heavy despite its body.

Structure:

  • Acidity: Medium-high to high, providing excellent freshness and food-pairing versatility.
  • Body: Medium to medium-full, more substantial than most Italian whites.
  • Alcohol: Typically 12.5-14% ABV.
  • Tannins: Minimal, though some texture comes from phenolic compounds.
  • Texture: Smooth and round, with a slightly waxy or oily mouthfeel in the best examples.

Aging:

  • Young (1-2 years): Fresh, vibrant, fruit-forward with floral aromatics
  • Medium-term (3-5 years): Develops honeyed complexity, deeper fruit character, enhanced mineral notes
  • Long-term (6-10 years): Select examples show remarkable evolution with dried fruit, nuts, and complex tertiary aromas while maintaining freshness

Food Pairing: Pecorino’s versatility at the table is exceptional:

  • Seafood: Grilled fish, seafood risotto, shellfish, calamari fritti
  • Poultry: Roasted chicken, turkey with herbs
  • Pasta: Creamy pasta dishes, seafood pasta, carbonara
  • Vegetables: Asparagus, artichokes, roasted vegetables
  • Cheese: The wine pairs well with aged Pecorino Romano cheese, fresh mozzarella, and mild goat cheese.
  • Asian cuisine: Works surprisingly well with moderately spiced Thai and Vietnamese dishes

Pecorino Today

Pecorino has experienced a remarkable renaissance over the past two decades. Once nearly extinct, it now represents one of Italy’s most exciting white wine success stories. Production has grown steadily, though it remains a niche variety with total plantings of only around 500-600 hectares in Italy.

Market Position: It occupies a sweet spot in the market—distinctive enough to attract wine enthusiasts seeking something different, yet accessible enough for casual wine drinkers. Prices typically range from $15-40 per bottle, with premium examples commanding higher prices.

Critical Recognition: Wine critics have increasingly championed Pecorino, with top producers regularly receiving scores in the 90+ point range from major publications. This recognition has elevated the grape’s profile internationally.

Sustainability Focus: Many Pecorino producers embrace organic and biodynamic viticulture, appealing to environmentally conscious consumers.

Should You Try It?

Absolutely, if you:

  • Enjoy white wines with character and personality beyond simple, light refreshment
  • Appreciate wines with both aromatic complexity and textural interest
  • Want alternatives to ubiquitous Pinot Grigio or over-oaked Chardonnay
  • Seek food-friendly whites that pair with diverse cuisines
  • Value discovering lesser-known varieties with authentic regional character
  • Enjoy wines that can age and develop complexity

Consider alternatives if you:

  • Prefer extremely light, neutral whites
  • Only enjoy sweet wines (most Pecorino is dry)
  • Aren’t willing to spend slightly more than basic Italian whites

Conclusion

Pecorino represents everything compelling about exploring beyond mainstream wine varieties. This ancient grape, rescued from near-extinction, produces distinctive white wines that combine elegance with substance, freshness with complexity, and tradition with modern winemaking excellence.

Its mountain heritage shows in every glass—there’s a purity and intensity to Pecorino that speaks of high-altitude vineyards and cool evening breezes. The wines offer something increasingly rare: genuine character and a strong sense of place, without pretension or excessive price tags, and a fresh, bright taste.

For wine lovers tired of the same international varieties, Pecorino provides a delicious journey into Italy’s viticultural diversity. It proves that great white wines need not follow the Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc template—they can forge their own path, expressing their unique terroir and heritage.

Whether you’re pairing it with fresh seafood along the Adriatic coast or simply seeking a white wine with personality for your dinner table, Pecorino delivers. This “little sheep” of Italian winemaking has finally received the recognition it deserves, and it’s ready to grace your glass with its distinctive charms.

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